Just four days after my graduation from Orlando Culinary Academy, I received a voicemail from Dori Sacksteder at WCR headquarters. She had called to inform me that I had been awarded the WCR scholarship to tour Thailand. I was ecstatic! Here I was, a new culinary graduate, working part time, preparing to move back to Chicago, and suddenly, I was taking a major detour to the Windy City via Thailand!
What a trip it was, from day one. When I arrived in Bangkok on the evening of Saturday, February 7, I was greeted by a gracious representative of the Banyan Tree Hotel, where our group stayed. I was tired, hot and thirsty after traveling for over 20 hours, halfway around the world. In addition, my senses were overloaded by the hustle and bustle of the airport, and the unfamiliar Thai script that called out from advertisements along the airport corridors. My hotel guide kindly led me to a Mercedes-Benz outside the main terminal, where I was offered a cool cloth to freshen my face and an icy cold bottle of water to quench my thirst. Following a dizzying half-hour cab ride, I was greeted promptly at the Banyan Tree Hotel with a warm smile and a kind Sawadee kah (hello). I was given a floral lei of jasmine flowers to wear as I checked in at the front desk.
On Sunday morning, jet-lagged and somewhat disoriented, I was awakened by the jangling ring of my hotel room phone. I answered with a groggy "hello". From the other end came the enthusiastic, voice of Rachel Stewart, a WCR member who would be one of my traveling companions. Rachel invited me to tour the Chatuchak Sunday Market, where we shared a lunch of crispy shrimp cakes and fried catfish. I was intrigued by the many condiments set before us at the table. Sugar for sweetness, dried chili flakes for heat, naam plaa, the ubiquitous Thai fish sauce, for salinity, and fresh red Thai chili in vinegar for tartness. Rachel, who has traveled to many parts of Asia, shared stories of her adventures. I felt that she adopted me as a little sister. She told me, "I think the panel picked a great person for this trip. You'll fit right in."


Enticing curries and other Thai delicasies at Chatuchak
On Monday, February 9, I met the other members of the group during a welcome reception at Vertigo, the world's tallest open roof-top restaurant. Like true foodies, we all took photos and jotted notes throughout the meal. My travel companions included noted executive chefs and instructors, successful restaurant owners and culinary journalists, wine enthusiasts and columnists, food historians and nutrition experts, writers and photographers. As diverse as we all were, the eleven of us shared a strong commonality: a passion for food and an intense curiosity about Thai cuisine.Though the emphasis was on culinary education, we had our share of cultural and spiritual epiphanies, too.
On a visit to the Grand Palace and Wat Pho, the oldest and largest temple in Bangkok, I realized how deeply the Buddhist faith influences everyday life in Thailand. Sights such as the huge Reclining Buddha, a dramatic and moving work of religious art, reminded me I was a minute speck in this vast realm which we call life. I knelt before the Emerald Buddha, observing a moment of silence and inner reflection. Certainly the main focus of the tour was Thailand's fantastic food; yet, a profound reawakening of my spirituality was another strong aspect of the trip.

Freshly pressed coconut milk
In terms of culture, open markets are an integral part of the Thai lifestyle. Shoppers graze past row upon row of glorious fresh fruits, exotic vegetables, locally caught fish and seafood as well as delicate sweets. Deann Bayless, past WCR president, observed that the markets possess a great aesthetic value and that the food looks as if it has been professionally styled. Our first market trip was to Aw Daw Gaw with Executive Chef Ian and Sous Chef Pom from the Banyan Tree. We arrived fairly early in the morning; not all vendors had their stalls open for business. Those who were ready to sell to us were gracious and hospitable. We tasted sweet and tangy fruits, savory kaengs (curries) and various grilled meats and vegetables. Seated at a table under a tree, we tasted mangosteens, champoo (rose apples), la-moot (sapodilla), som-oh (pumelo), ka-noon (jackfruit) and rambutans. But snake fruit was my personal favorite. Sold in clusters, snake fruit has spiny thorns protruding from its maroon skin but the flesh of the fruit is cream-colored and very juicy. During our taste panel, I described the flavor as being a combination of pineapple, unripe strawberry and vanilla custard.
Mounds of exotic tropical fruit

At mid-day, Chef Ian and Chef Pom treated a few of us to Thai iced coffee. He explained how it is made. Arabica beans are roasted and mixed with tangy tamarind seeds, then brewed and served over crushed ice with sweetened condensed milk. A most refreshing beverage on a hot Thai afternoon; I doubt they have anything remotely close to this at my local Starbuck's.
On a visit to Yawarat, Bangkok's Chinatown, we wove our way past narrow walkways and stalls cluttered with wares running the gamut from dried spices to herbal remedies, dehydrated mushrooms, roasted ducks, brined meats, pickled vegetables, candied fruits, beads and stones, fabrics, cookware, paper products and prepared food. The shoppers move briskly in Chinatown, and failure to keep up the pace could lead to being trampled. It was overwhelming to me; the buzz of motorcycles, the calls of shopkeepers, the aroma of fried pork andpreserved fish. I left Yawarat exhausted and over-stimulated. Yet I wouldn't have missed the experience.
Roasted duck and fresh river prawns in Chinatown
From Yawarat, we walked to Pahurat (India, Arab town), a less crowded market, more accommodating to shoppers. We took our time browsing the fine silks, colorful artwork and other merchandise. The night flower market, Pak Klong Talad, was brimming with deliciously scented jasmine, exotic orchids, exquisitely arranged roses, ferns, trees and potted plants. During the day, we stayed busy with cooking lessons, shopping sprees, historical tours, spiritual retreats, elephant rides, and lots and lots of eating.
Pak Klong Talad night flower market
On our way to the ruins of Ayutthaya we stopped along a roadside stand where sweets were being sold. Four women sat behind two large, round, hot flat-tops where they created delicate crepe-like wraps from a sticky rice dough. In the back of the stand, two young men were making simple syrup from local cane sugar: a rich and nutty roux made of vegetable oil and
flour would later be incorporated into the caramelized sugar. As the cooks pulled and twisted the sugar, like taffy, each strand became greater in length and more delicate. The confection took on the appearance of a tethered rope yet was smooth to the touch. We were told that the sugar is either left to its natural light-tan color, or dyed green from the leaves of pandanas, or purple from local flowers that resemble violets. The final step in this confection is to roll the delicate sugar strands into the light and airy crepe shells. Delicious! I wonder if I can get the same results with a Silpat. It's worth a shot, right?
Pulling sugar to make candy in Ayutthaya

On this day, we were joined at lunch by Malulee Pinsuvana, an expert on regional Thai cookery and a noted cook book author and culinary instructor. Our meal included wing beans and morning glory greens; the latter, delicate and slightly woody in flavor, were stir-fried with garlic and just a hint of naam plaa. The wing beans were served with a zesty vinaigrette which helps maintain their crispness and herbaceous flavor. We also feasted on grilled river prawns with savory butter that Malulee ordered for us. The crustaceans' shells were a rich sapphire similar to that of the Normandy lobster. The flesh was opaque, moist and sweet. The crisp river breeze and the ice cold Singhas we shared made this a memorable meal.
Thai massage, a favorite past time for our group, is a combination of deep tissue massage, reflexology and yoga. The enveloping warmness of a carrot, clove and cardamom herbal wrap helped to relieve muscle tension. A cooling mint and citrus oil rub brought serenity to my mind, and the calming essence of jasmine and rose encouraged a deeper state of relaxation. A warm and inviting cup of lemongrass tea concluded my rejuvenating Thai spa treatment.
After an exhilarating week in Bangkok, we flew an hour north to the province of Chiang Mai. We checked into the Royal Lanna Hotel, located above the Night Bazaar, a shopper's paradise. Local artists offered great bargains on hand-crafted items made from silk, wood, silver, bronze, paper, ceramic, leather, stone, and gems. The deals were so irresistible that we often found ourselves bumping into one another at the nearest ATM. We were mega-shoppers; and we had Bhat (Thai currency) to burn.
A close encounter with a baby elephant in Northern Thailand
Our cooking classes at both Le Grand Lanna and the Regent Cooking School at the Four Seasons Mae Rim were a marvel, whether you were a novice chef or a seasoned professional. I found the new kitchen equipment and mise en place well-organized and beautifully arranged. The indigenous ingredients were bountiful. The staffs were friendly and willing to answer any question. They eagerly assisted us in our efforts, including the making of smooth curry paste.

Ingredients for fresh made panang curry
The Northern Thai cooking style is simpler than the Bangkok variety and emphasizes more tangy, tart flavors. Coconut is a less common ingredient than in Southern Thai fare, and anchovies replace naam plaa. Sticky rice is more common on the Northern table than the fragrant jasmine rice found in other regions. One of my favorite Northern dishes is Kaow Soi Nua, curried noodles with beef. The fragrant and subtly-spiced curry is served with egg noodles and garnished with lime juice, shallots and pickled mustard greens. The bold flavors of the curry and its rusty hue reminded me of a spicyHungarian style goulash laced with piquant paprika.
Not all of our cooking classes were in professional kitchens. Khunying Aoy, lady in waiting to Thailand's Royal Queen Sirikit, and her husband Kitty graciously invited us to their home to cook with them. Together, we made a dish that combined chiles, pork and duck eggs. Next time I make chile rellenos I will try this tecnique.
Pork and garlic filled peppers wrapped in a nest of fried duck egg
At a young age, Aoy was taken in and cared for by the Royal Thai Family after she lost her parents and sister in a tragic car accident. Aoy told us she has carried on a tradition that is deeply rooted in Thai culture. When a loved one passes on, the living are indebted to remember the deceased by honoring them with a memorial book. For her father, Aoy produced a book on antiques; for her sister, a book reflecting her interest in stamp collecting, and for Aoy's mother, a book dedicated to her love of cooking. Beautifully arranged full-color photos accompanied detailed family recipes. One aspect of the book that stood out was the use of the color, white, throughout the book. Aoy told us that white was a color of deep significance to her mother, whose nickname was the Thai word for white.
Market stalls at Rajburi Market attract Bangkok tourists and shoppers to Chiang Mai. One evening before dinner we participated in a beautiful prayer ritual during which we released live fish into a local river. The following morning we arose early and set out to give alms to a group of monks. Olivia noted, "Food is freely given to you; and you must give it away freely". After the monks humbly received our offerings for the day, the monks harmoniously chanted as we silently offered prayers and asked for blessings for our loved ones.
A trek up winding Kaew Road lead us to Doi Suthep, a beautiful and ornate temple high above Chiang Mai. Numerous images of Buddha, in-layed in gold and draped in robes, adorned the temple. Visitors lit candles, burned incense and placed fresh lotus flowers upon shrines as offerings. I was filled with a feeling of reverence as I placed a small monetary offering near one of the shrines. An elderly monk recited a prayer and tied a string bracelet around my right wrist. I was told that this would bring me luck and well-being. I thought to myself, "This entire experience has brought me luck and well being".
Offering of alms to Buddhist monks
Early on in our tour, Deann had suggested that each night at our family meal we should share with the group one insight from the day. It became a special part of each day. On our last night in Chiang Mai, we decided to each recite our Top Ten Moments in Thailand, a la David Letterman style. When Deann reached the top of her list, her "No. 1 Moment" was our nightly family meal and the personal insights we shared during them. There wasn't a dry eye in the group.
At the end of our journey, back at the Bangkok airport, we checked into an airport hotel. Tired and in need of a quick meal and a few drinks, we decided to meet atMizuho, a restaurant offering Japanese fare. As we shared platters of salmon sushi and tuna sashimi, we reminisced about the bonds that were formed and the fun times shared. We recalled a lunch of Chinese food on a bumpy bus ride back to our hotel. We joked about how former WCR president Ann Cooper picked apart everything we ate and every recipe we learned. I admire her attention to detail and her willingness to share her knowledge. Olivia and I discussed the parallels between my Mexican heritage and traditional Thai food. I love naam phrik num, or as I referred to it, Thai salsa verde. It became my favorite snack with crispy fried pork skins similar to Mexican style chicharones.
I will forever be grateful to all who made this experience possible for me. To all the people of Thailand who greeted me at local markets, who smiled at me at temples, who were fascinated to hear about my simple life back in the States and who shared their food, recipes, family history and spirituality with me" Khawp Khun Kha (Thank You) from the bottom of my heart".
Golden Buddha at Wat Pho
